Building the biceps

Before I speak about my bulging biceps I would just like to comment on deans last post re the boat trip. He did fail to mention that I get sea sick and a 14 hour boat trip was something I’d had to prepare myself to do (again) and the only comfort I had to get me through was the ‘vip’ ticket where I could basically just read, sleep and be cool…and not see the sea moving up and down….up and down…vomit.

So when dean insisted that it would be fine to spend 14 hours in a haze of cigarette smoke, on a steel chair/dirty floor with people and litter all around us I was not happy….furious actually. Luckily for dean I had some travel pills and wasn’t sick, and the sea water that was coming in about a metre from where we were sleeping didn’t touch us….and it didn’t rain…luckily…And we had blow up airbeds…lucky for me dean is a very patient, forgiving man and coaxed me out of my angry mood and we made it, it was an experience and I never want to do it again 😊

So, we have just spent the last two days riding the long windy roads of Flores…some beautiful scenery and lovely people with excited happy children and cute little kid goats…but the roads are so windy that i have spent the last two days holding on to the bike so hard that my bicpes are rapidly ripping themselves into form!I’m just hoping they don’t get as big as they did in the last trip but we have a long way to go yet! We are spending the nights at altitude so it is cooler which is great as it’s pretty hot in this part of the world at the moment! Tomorrow we head to Labuan bajo for a few days of diving…and tonight we are watching the MotoGP hoping for a win from Rossi…!

The ferry to Flores

“No VIP tickets, finished”

Yelled the man “No problem, normal ticket ok.”

Now I’m sitting on a deflated blow up mattress on the cargo deck of the ferry to Flores.  Around me in no particular order of importance are:

About another 20 people who were also too late (or too poor) to get a seat or bed upstairs.

7 small ponies

12 boxes of chicks (as in small chickens), all “cheep cheep”ing their miniature hearts out.

One very irate girlfriend

Lots of trucks

Many small motorbikes

Hundreds of sacks filled with everything from garlic, to used plastic bottles…

 

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sally enjoying the cruise…

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the view from the top deck

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ponies to keep us company

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just about to disembark.

Fast forward 18 hours.

On the upside, we did manage to make it to Kupang in time to ship the new tyres we’re carrying to Bali, and then catch the 4pm ferry (which actually departed at 2pm).

The plan was to get a VIP ticket, which while it sounds great, just means you get to lay down in a cooled room full of bunk beds with another 40 people, mostly snoring, or playing different music on their phones at maximum volume.

The other class of ticket is “not VIP”, where you get to sit on a metal chair, in a hot room with 200 other people, most of whom are smoking, with bizarre music being played at eardrum shattering volume.

We arrived at the terminal at 1:55pm, and the loading door for the ferry was already being closed, so in the panic to get tickets and get on board, I missed the rising hysteria in Sal’s voice at the prospect of a 16 hour ferry trip in “not VIP” class.  It may have been more complex than that, but let’s not get bogged down with details here…

Once on board however I did pick up on some fairly clear signs that all was not well.

Anyway, we opted to sleep down on the cargo deck where at least no one was smoking.  The blow up mattresses we still have came in vary handy, and aside from the wind blowing a fucking gale, the horses screaming in panic every half hour or so, the chicks screeching all night long, the blindingly bright lights that were left on all night, the lack of any food or water and the 100% humidity from the fog that we passed through, it was quite nice night.

Did I mention the sea water running across the floor?

Never mind, it can’t all be white sandy beaches and Balinese villas can it?

We FINALLY arrived here in Larantuka at about 7am, and staggered into town to find another room, eat some food and crash out in another mosquito infested, then poisoned room.

Today was spent walking through town looking for some bits and pieces, getting a local sim card (our number is +6781337026357), eating some more and trying to find some vacuum hose for a minor repair on Betsy.

They don’t get many tourists in sleepy traditional Larantuka, so walking into a mechanics workshop with Sally in her short summer dress, while we tried to explain ‘vacuum hose’ in sign language – caused quite a stir.  Especially after I drew a picture of a piece of tube (that Sal said looked like male genitalia), and Sal made a sucking face complete with sucking noises to complete the mime.

The look on all the boys faces was priceless.

“Must be time for a beer” – Sally.

On that note, bye all!!

We finally get moving

Many amazing things have just happened. For possibly the first time ever, a shipping company was on time, and definitely for the first time ever, a shipping company charged LESS than they quoted. WTF?

There was also the taxi driver who took me to the shipping yard, he managed to make the 5km trip at no more than 35km/hr in top gear slipping the clutch the whole way there.  (Something to do with saving petrol I assume).

Then after being stored for a month, Betsy started up right away, we rode to the border, and (technically) entered Indonesia with invalid visas (YEAH BABY!!).

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cutting the customs lock, and…

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lucky Betsy was at the front!!

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tank full of fuel, and we’re off!

‘Technically’ you aren’t allowed to apply for 2 visas for the same country in 2 different passports.  However if say for example, a friend of mine… wanted to fly to Indonesia while a bike was being delivered to Timor, and then go get the bike and re enter Indonesia over the land border, ‘technically’ he would have to get a visa on arrival in Bali, but then apply for a second visa from the Indo consulate in East Timor (ten days turnaround) to then cross the land border (visa on arrival is only available at an airport).

Complicated?

Well anyway, if that friend instead applied for one visa at the Indo consulate before leaving home, but then entered Indo the first time with a different passport, then that person might get away with using the now ‘technically’ invalid visa at a remote border crossing where they couldn’t match the two passports as all they have in the way of technology is a mobile phone and a generator being propelled by three goats.

Back to the amazing things that happened today… At a town 100km from the border we found a room for $10, 2 single beds, no bathroom, toilet down the hall with a mandi (traditional Indonesian wash room – i.e. insect infested damp filthy room with a shallow water tank in one corner, a squat toiled in the other, and a plastic scoop to deliver the water to either the toilet, or your body while washing. And… Sally used the mandi.  Let’s not dwell on that though, as there will be more mandi’s before the end of this adventure.

Then… “ Hello my name is Jeffrey, how are you?”  said the random young Indonesian guy standing at reception “I’m good thanks, my name is Dino.  How are you?” “I am very well, but I need to go to my English class now, I will return afterwards” “um OK…” Our ten dollar room was of course insect infested, so I asked the guy at reception if he had some fly spray (in sign language).  He nodded, and went off to get what I assumed would be a can of fly spray…  But no!  He came back with a thing that looked like the garden sprayer that my nonno used on his fruit trees – you know the sort, big long brass tube with a plunger and a jar of liquid screwed to the bottom of it.  Um OK. He went into the room and pumped the hell out of the thing, spraying “I cant believe it’s not Diesel” all around, then closed the door and told me to come back in 5 mins.

“Sal that guy just sprayed our room full of Diesel, I doubt we’re going to get any sleep tonight”

“What?!”

So off we went to find dinner and let our room fumigate.

“Hello Dino, this is my friend Mary, and this is Stef, is it ok if we join you, we want to practice our English?” We spend the next 2 hours finding cold beer, eating dinner and then just chatting with the three lovely guys from Kefa in West Timor. We taught them a little English, and they taught us some Bahasa, pretty good deal all round.

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Sally with her new admirers “how can she be so beautiful?!”

By the time we returned, our room was considerably less stinky, although it still smells like a  mechanics workshop, but the mosquitos and cockroaches littering the floor are evidence that whatever it was worked. Lovely. What else?

We actually had a nice time in Dili, drank some beers at the seaside bars, watched a movie in the Dili Cineplex (for old times sake), ordered cocktails at the rooftop bar next to the cinema, and then ate Thai for dinner before going to bed rather early last night.

Oh and I took a wrong turn just after the border and we ended up on an alternative road to get here, which took us up a little in altitude, which is really nice because it’s much cooler up higher, it also took us through some very remote villages where they don’t see too many tourists on motorbikes, and in a brief photo stop, we were surrounded by a big group of children wanting their picture taken, the kids on this end of Indonesia are really cheecky, lots of fun!

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For our first day on the road things are going swimmingly.  Tomorrow we head to Kupang city hopefully in time to get the ferry to Flores.

Timor Leste tomorrow

Just a quick little update the night before we fly to Dili, finally our time here in Bali waiting out the shipping has ended and we’re off to start our adventure in earnest, we hope.

But not without some last minute hurdles, as we found out last night that Air Timor cancelled our flight and was not expecting to resume operations until ???

We tried to book another flight online with Sriwijaya Air (I’m sure you’ve heard of them!), but they wouldn’t accept a payment, so we had to run to the airport to make the payment in person.  Done.  Phew.

Hopefully tomorrow we can get all the red tape done and collect the bike. Hopefully.

This last week we have been diving in the north of Bali, walking the full length of the beach here from Kuta to Seminyak (22km return!), exploring the south of the island where we found a little gem of a beach somehow not yet ruined by tourism and exploring many more beaches that have been ruined by tourism and unregulated development.

That’s about it really, fingers crossed for tomorrow!

 

 

 

Some pics from the last week hanging at Belangan beach.

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it’s hard work really.

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no big hotels here at all, just some wooden huts on the beach usually with a restaurant down stairs.

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We slept in a little room in the top of that one, $15 a night!

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this one’s for you Paul.

 

Offroad in Bali

IMG_20150823_150045 On arriving here in Ubud I was fortunate enough to be invited on a day of offroad riding with a friend I made four years ago, his name is Kadex, and he and his father run a little moto workshop just outside the center of Ubud.

When we first met, Kadex was riding an old cr200, and he and another 2 friends – Reza and Uput took me out for a day riding up and down the volcanoes here in Bali on my KTM 950. I thought back then that we’d ridden on some pretty crazy trails, little did I know…

I messaged Kadex on the evening we arrived saying “hey mate, I’m in Ubud again, are you in the workshop?”, and he replied with, “no I’m in Jakarta at the opening of KTM Indonesia, but tomorrow we go riding, I have a bike for you, come tomorrow at 8”

OK if you insist!

So the next morning at 8 I arrived to find Kadex dressed in full Husaberg team colours, complete with his name printed on the back of his riding jersy!  I also notice a wall of the workshop covered in new Trophies, he points to the four most recent ones and says “last time racing I entered 4 different classes all on the same day.  Crazy day, drop one bike, grab next one, make race, grab another bike…” There’s one 1st Place trophy, and three for 2nd Place.  Not bad!

He points to a little Kawasaki klx 250 parked in the garage telling me that’s my bike, and passes me some knee pads, boots, a jersey and some pants.

Then he wheels out his new Husaberg 350 and ten minutes later we’re on our way to another friends house, where one by one, 7 other guys arrive, all riding Husabergs and all dressed in pretty serious kit. Neck braces, chest and back armour, Knee braces etc. One of the guys asks me if I’ve ridden in Bali before? “Yes, once on my 950 with Kadex” “So you know how it is here then?” “Um… i think so”

Kadex reassures me it wont be anything too crazy today, “technical single track, first and second gear for most of the day, nice and slow…” This coming from a man with a wall covered in trophies doesn’t really make me feel much better.

I’ve always wondered how one of these Thai made KLX’s would compare to a real enduro bike, this was my big chance to find out!  I was actually a bit scared… We snaked our way into the mountains, and eventually pulled up outside a tiny house where a 12 year old boy was working on a 100cc scooter that had been cut to bits, all unnecessary bodywork removed or broken off, and had nobby tyres fitted to it.

He was to be our guide for the day, complete with rubber boots and no helmet – a Marc Coma Junior for sure!!  It wound up being an amazing day, riding trails that had been used the previous week for an enduro competition, where somehow ‘Junior could magically lead us to one point, have all of us pass him, then disappear and reappear in front of all of us again at the next difficult climb of the track, standing ready on the trails edge to stop a bike from tumbling back down the hill when someone fell.

Not the safest place to ride a bike, especially in the areas being used to source bamboo poles, where a slight mistake would send bike and rider tumbling down a vertical cliff face into bamboo trees that had all been cut off about half a metre off the ground, perfectly sliced off at an angle to impale you!

On some of the hill climbs most of the group of riders needed more than one shot to get to the top, so I didn’t feel so bad when I had to try a couple of times too, and there was only one climb that the little KLX just wasn’t going to get up, as concurred by Kadex “too heavy, not enough power, you go around”

Late in the afternoon we stopped for a break (after one of the harder climbs where ‘Junior and his whole family had to tie a rope to the bikes and physically drag us up a near vertical angle!)  From somewhere a box full of food and water appeared, fish with rice wrapped in banana leaf – too good!

On returning to ‘Junior’s house, we all paid the grand sum of 5 dollars for he and his families time, lunch and his fuel.  A pretty good deal if you ask me.

Fortunately the day passed without incident, I returned an unscratched KLX to Kadex and went home to the villa with all my limbs functioning, and passed out.

The next day …  “EVERYTHING hurts!!”

IMG_20150823_150115 ‘Junior and his helper, the next Indonesian motocross star!

 

Finally!

The email we’ve been waiting for…

 HI Dean

Please come and collect your TAX INVOICE & BILL OF LADING for ANL DARWIN TRADER.

The vessel ANL DARWIN TRADER is due to arrive Dili on 31-Aug-15 and will be berthing on 4-9-15

Please note the arrival date may change without notice.

Vessel: ANL DARWIN TRADER

Voyage: 1915N

Ocean Bill No:  

DINO MARTINELLO

 $        62.71

S00033091

Tax Invoice: Total ($ 62.71 USD)

Container Demurrage

Dry Containers: 10 Calendar free days after cargo is available from vessel berthed.

Attention all your import emails to:

Yanti Lisboa yanti.lisboa@anltl.tl

Thanks and God Bless

Ruth Martins

Reception and Administration Officer

Toll  T-L

Kampung Merdeka, Comoro,

Dili, Timor-Leste

Email: ruth.martins@anltl.tl

Phone:+670 3310162

God bless you Ruth!!

In the meantime we’ve left our home in Ubud, loaded up the scooter and headed to the north coast via some volcanoes.

Today we dived on an island, Menanjakan might be it’s name, fun but not life changing.

Flights to Dili on the 8th… Counting it down now.

Love to all at home, and big congrats to Australia’s newest permanent resident Flossie.  Wish we were home to have a beer or twelve with you guys, will have some arak cocktails instead!

Our boat is in Darwin!

Still here in Bali, currently passing time in a little villa in Ubud, exploring the surrounding area and watching the marine traffic website with interest to see where our cargo boat is… Yes – you can find out where a marine vessel is at almost anytime, very handy for those among us who have little faith in what our friends at the freight forwarding company tell us 🙂 And… ship tracker as you can see, our boat is in Darwin harbour, miraculously more or less on time according to the last schedule we were sent. And courtesy of some more tracking info, we know our container is loaded and at the port ready to be put on said boat… container   According to all this, Betsy should be in Timor by the evening of the 31st, but being old hands at this, we know that just because the boat arrives, it doesn’t mean it will get unloaded anytime soon, so we’ve booked our flights to Dili for one week after that, by which time (with some luck) we could go directly to customs, get the carnet stamped and then go get the bike. That’s the plan anyway.

Hanging out in Bali

So we have been here in Bali for just over a week now…the boat from Australia to Dili with the bike has been delayed again…this is starting to feel like deja vu…! So now it is not due to leave Australia until the 29th (originally the 21st) so at this stage we still have another 2 weeks to kill here!

We spent about a week on Lembongan, a little island off the coast of Bali which was really cool. A lot quieter than Bali, some really good diving with great visibility but very cold water – one dive got down to 16C! A great place to relax and not really do much. We then came back to Bali, rented a scooter and headed up to Ubud where we met up with Natasha for a few days. Its the first time we have been here in the high season so there are a lot more people than we are used to but its still a nice place to waste some time. We hired a few scooters and rode up to a temple on a lake (it does have a name…?!) It was a beautiful ride and so much fun to be on a bike of my own for once! Dodging in and out of all the crazy traffic here also added to it…I’m not sure about this pillion deal anymore…!

Dean is off today riding with his friend Kadex while I will hang with Natasha before she heads back to Kuta to get ready to fly home. As for the following days I really have no idea how we are going to occupy ourselves…I have a feeling we may find ourselves back diving on Lemongan again…

Our $6 feast over looking the sea in Lemongnan

Our $6 feast over looking the sea in Lemongnan

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A local woman stocktaking the daily catch

Me with my jizzed up coconut water ;)

Me with my jizzed up coconut water 😉

Dean the hair farmer

Dean the hair farmer

Natasha and I tearing it up in Bali on our beasts!

Natasha and I tearing it up in Bali on our beasts!

Natasha drawing a crowd by giving out strawberries (I think they were actually wanting money..!)

Natasha drawing a crowd by giving out strawberries (I think they were actually wanting money..!)