Sleepy Sal

Another long day in the saddle…

looking a little tired af the end of a long days riding

looking a little tired af the end of a long days riding

 

and another passed out rider…

starting to make a habit of this

starting to make a habit of this

 

It’s not all hardships though, the north of thailand is great bike country, great food country and lovely people all around.  We’ve been though some amazing places, some rather tricky riding, and some highway too.  Tonight we stopped just 25km short of Chiang Mai, ate some dinner and even found Sal a glass of red wine to go with it.

P1030343 (Large)

 

Tomorrow we ride into town to collect our passports from DHL (thanks Paul!!). then visit the Indian and Myanmar embassies before I start 2 or 3 days work on Betsy to get ready for the next stage of our trip.   Looking forward to getting my hands dirty!

xoxo

PS if anyone wants to leave a message, you can click on the little baloon on the top rhs of any post, it’s changed since I updated the layout of the site and I dont know if anyone (i.e. Mum) knows how to do it anymore :))  We always love to hear from you (Mum) xoxo

Shattered…!

Yes it’s true… I don’t know how Dean does it every day… 200 Kms and I can barely keep my eyes open! I now have a new respect for Dean and understand why he can be a little slow mentally after an 800 km day 😉 I also understand why he always has a desperate need for a beer as soon as we arrive at our destination…. I’ve never wanted a beer as much as I did at the end of today despite being freezing!

Day two of riding and no falls or scratches yet! The long curvy roads with no traffic are fun but the tight hair pin turns over and over and over again get a bit tiring and hard, especially when I forget if I have to tap up or down to go down gears!

The road has had my full concentration but from the rare glances I’ve had at the scenery it is really beautiful up here! Tomorrow we are riding up to the border where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet. It’s called the golden triangle and its known for its opium production over the years. The government is trying to encourage the production of coffee instead of opium these days so there are coffee shops galore up here – a nice change from the 3 in 1 coffee (80% sugar, 10% coffee, 10% powdered milk) sachets we have been living off for the last 5 months!

Time to go to bed now…. It’s 8pm 😁

Caution, Elephants on the road…

would you realy expect to see one???

would you realy expect to see one???

Well it’s certainly nice to be in Thailand again!  Without casting aspersions on the entire Lao population, it’s impossible to ignore how much more friendy the Thai’s are – immediately after crossing the border.

While in Laos, a friend (hi Deb!!) had a little fall on her motorbike on a busy street, and not a single person offered to help her, even when she was struggling to pick up the bike, people just watched from a distance.  Compare this to us running out of petrol on our first day in Thailand and having a stranger lend me his motorbike to ride to the closest petrol station to fill an empty container which he also loaned me.

And it’s not about language, or wealth, or exposure to tourism, the Thais are just really generous and helpful, whereas in much of Laos, as another traveller said “if feels like they hate us here”.  (I must say though, that the north of Laos is very different to the rest, many small ethnic minorities in the mountains, that were really friendly and welcoming, and if you consider the 2,000,000 tonnes of bombs dropped on Laos it’s not surprising that they’re not so warm to foreigners…).

Thailand also has food other than Pho, which if you’ve been reading, you’ll know makes me happy!

Enough of that, we crossed the border a few days ago, more low level corruption, this time on the Thai side, (they’re not perfect!), where we were asked for 20baht for something I couldn’t work out, then another 200 for something else… as usual we asked for a receipt, which caused a stir, and the boss of customs came over and ripped up the forms we’d just spent ten mins filling in and threw them in the bin before handing us new ones.  He angrily explained that if we didn’t want to pay, we had to fill them in ourselves…

“WE JUST FILLED THOSE IN OURSELVES!!!”

“oh, you did… not him?”  pointing to the guy behind the window who had asked for the 200 baht (who was now standing there unseccessfully trying not to look stupid)

no, we just did it, WHY DID YOU TEAR THEM UP??!!”

Cue very embarassed border official, instantly apologetic and thus forward very helpful and curteous.  Funny.

We spent the night at the border eating not-pho, before riding to Chiang Mai the next day, and eating some more not-pho.  Not-pho is my new favourite food 🙂

Last night Sally and I celebrated 4 Years I love you (see previous post with same title) by eating wood fired pizza (aka not-pho) and drinking a litre of red wine, it’s been so long since we ate western food, it was really a treat 🙂

Today we picked up the little honda that we’ve hired for Sally to ride around northern Thailand, and we made about 150km, mostly on tiny little mountain roads to end up in a small town called Chiang Dao (north of Chiang Mai).

During the ride, the road I’d chosen to ease Sal into riding, degenerated from a nice hilly road, into a tiny concrete path, and eventually a dirt road… Which was not part of the plan.  We stopped to decide whether to turn back or not, but the first car that came past also stopped to see if we needed some help (love the Thai’s!).  He explained that there was only about 1km of this dirt road, before the concrete path resumed to take us back to a normal road another 15km onward.

I was going to ride the dirt part first to see how broken up it was and then come back for Sal, but the friendly Thai man was still waiting to see if we were ok.  He judged the look on Sal’s face quite well (fear), and offered to ride her bike for her to the end of the dirt part.  “Thank you so much!”

Most people in SE Asia are born already riding motorbikes, so even a sandy dirt road on a bike with road going tyres is pretty easy for them, and we followed him for a few minutes, while his wife followed in the car.

Cop coon cup!!!  (thank you in Thai), he waved goodbye with a friendly smile and we were off again.

Now with Sal in front and me following, we wound our way along the path, which turned back into a road (phew!) that followed a river, really pretty.  Rounding one of the corners, I saw Sal brake and straighten up, then swerve onto the wrong side of the road… I was about to hit the call button on the intercom when I also had to brake and swerve… to miss an ELEPHANT!!!!!!!

this is not the elephant we saw :0)

this is not the elephant we saw :0)

Yes a frikkin ELEPHANT walking down the road.  We both passed swearing and staring at the enormous animal, which seemed completely oblivious to us, ambling down the road.  I think we were both in a bit of shock as we didn’t even stop for a picture, sorry.

Anyhow, we arrived here for another lovely lunch of not-pho, and are about to go check out the night market that was being set up when we were eating.

Hi to all back home xoxo

Northern Laos

our accommodation the other night... and Sal says I never take her anywhere nice!

our accommodation the other night… and Sal says I never take her anywhere nice!

Writing this from bed in a hotel room in northern Laos, the town is called Oodoumxiay or Muang Xai, or any one of a few different versions of either of those.  Most towns in Laos have more than one name, makes finding them interesting sometimes.

The most important thing that happened today is that we eventually ate something that was not pho.  It was chinese fried fish, barely an improvement actually, but when it came time to pay, the bill was several times what we were expecting… cue mexican style standoff, with both sides threatening to call the police (i still dont have their number or a phone to call on…), and eventually we settled for something inbetween.

They were not happy though and swore in several different languages as we left.  I’m pretty glad Betsy is parked in reception tonight!

The last few days have been spent eating pho.  Oh and we rode the bike around a bit, but mostly we just ate pho.  pho for breakfast, pho for lunch and pho for dinner.  For two whole days.

In between feasting on our favourite combination of boiled beef strips, beef stock, noodles and a tiny bit of spring onion (sounds delicious doesnt it?!), we left Luang Prabang, home to the most beautiful waterfall we’ve seen here,  and headed to Pnosavan, to see the Plain of Jars.  Never heard of it?  No I’m not surprised.  Suffice to say, it is a plain, dotted with large stone Jars, 1m high and wide, that date back to 500BC.  No one really knows where they came from, or what they were used for.  A bit like stone henge, except stone henge is not shit.

waterfall in luang prabang

waterfall in luang prabang

 

waterfall selfie :)

waterfall selfie 🙂

 

stone jars... fascinating.

stone jars… fascinating.

 

stone jar selfie :)

stone jar selfie 🙂

An interesting thing about the plain of jars is that it was one of the centres of the US bombing campaign in Laos in the Vietnam war.  Sadly Laos has the ignomy of being the most heavily bombed country in the world, 2,000,000 tonnes of bombs were dropped in this little country, which is the same as the total tonnage dropped by ALL of the allied forces in WW2.  Pretty crazy given that Laos was not officially in the Vietnam war at all!!

sign in one of the bomb craters that surround the pain of jars

sign in one of the bomb craters that surround the pain of jars

But the most remarkable part of northern laos, once you leave the tourist trail, is just how friendly the people are.  The smiles and waves we’re gtting from the kids on the road is almost overwhelming.  It feels like i’m chauffering the queen in London!

hello!!!

hello!!!

The towns we ride through are basically just a row of rickety wooden houses on each side of the road, sometimes just a few, and othertimes they go on for a kilometer. Life for the people the these villages seems to play out on the road in full view, they wash at a hand pump somewhere along the road, they cook their meals outside on the ‘footpath’, the kids play on the road, and their amimals roam across the road at will.  We see women weaving on ancient wooden looms, we see kids bringing firewood back to the centre of town in baskets hung on their backs from a strap that’s stretched across their foreheads and we see women feeding babies.

PH001325_thm

All manner of animals roam the road.  Passing any village I’ll need to brake hard to miss chickens, ducks, dogs, cows, pigs, turkey and buffalo, and it seems they all have babies at the moment so chicks, puppies and piglets are everywhere!  So far I’ve only hit one chicken, which was very sad.

PH001301_thm

The scenery has been mountainous, we’ve been climbing and decending for the past three days, as high as 1600m and down to 300m, but always going up and down, and continually turning corners.   The road has ranged from new tar to horribly broken up, but usually ok, and Betsy is really in her element, I wont bang on about it, but I’ve really been enjoying the ride.

P1030328

 

PH001269_thm

Tomorrow we expect to reach the Thai border, and the next day with a bif of luck we’ll be in Chiang Mai.

Cant wait not to eat Pho ever again.

 

Phô x 7

So we did have phô for breakfast/lunch… But made it to a ‘Chinese’ restaurant for dinner… It was so bad and oily that it made us wish we had had phô… They also tried to charge us 3 times more than they had originally quoted… Really looking forward to Thailand ☺️

Pho x 6

I shit you not, if I have to eat another bowl of noodles for breakfast tomorrow I’m going to be sick.
6 of our last 7 meals have been Pho. Aka beef noodle soup.
Not because we like it, or because we can’t read the menu, just because that’s all you can buy in this part of the world.
Arrrggghhhhh!!!!!!!